ANTICIPATION…..Five months worth. Almost unbearable. Getting a taste of paradise but having to wait so long for another sip when all you want is the tall, condensation laden ice filled glass …the whole thing ….gulp it down without stopping for a breath. A breath so parched it’s thirst can never be quenched. How can I continue with sips when I am dying of thirst for life in Huatulco.
Upon my first and only visit to this ecologically astute area of Mexico on the Pacific side in the state of Oaxaca,
Bahias de Huatulco is an unspoiled well thought out tourist area that is slowly rising to the top of the culturally conscious travelers list of laid back” this is the real Mexico” trip I want to take.
Now that I’ve had a taste I can’t stop obsessing about a place that seems to me to be idyllic. Somewhere to grow old, enjoying the everyday pleasures of a tropical seaside community.
Prior to heading south I had found a possible guide for the time we were to be there. After meeting Mario and spending some time together we became “brothers” and I had the pleasure of meeting his wife Canela as well as their youngest daughter Xel-ha . Our daughters were of the same age and played on the beach one day having a great time even though they were from different worlds and had a language barrier to deal with. It’s too bad most adults can’t do that.
I had decided a few months prior to the trip that I should take some things for the poor and after contacting Mario and hearing his advice on what to bring and where to take it
I crammed our stuff into 2 suitcases and used the third to transport the donations. It too was filled to the brim as I had purchased from dollar stores and second hand shops scribblers, pencils and crayons, Barbie dolls, a couple of soccer balls, assorted clothing and candy.
We were well received by the school staff and children. Mario and I had arrived unannounced as school was letting out and the elementary kids were surprised at some stranger bearing gifts standing in the school yard. After talking to the principal who graciously accepted the school supplies, the contents of my suitcase was disbursed on a first come first serve basis and everyone lined up in an orderly fashion. Eventually some of the parents came over and humbly/ shyly/politely asked for things they need the next time if I come. I think that was my turning point towards helping those with less fortunate than I.
I mean here I am sitting in my climate controlled, mortgage free house with my wife and both of us with good jobs, retirement savings, health care, insurance on everything, minimal debt load, and I’m stressed about life!?
These people are struggling to survive amongst high unemployment, poverty, alcoholism and drug addiction, no health insurance and poor education.
Not to mention this area borders the jungle and you have to contend with tarantulas, possums, snakes and other assorted critters roaming around.
Mario was quite taken by my gesture as I was with his in assisting me to reach the poor and I believe it sealed the bond between us. We keep in touch almost daily and I’ve had chance to get the skinny on life in Mexico.
After returning home and doing hours of research towards starting a charity to help provide basic essentials for the people, I got mucho tangled up in red tape and high startup costs so I decided to try and do what I could on my own.
I didn’t think I could be very successful as a fundraiser for my unregistered charity so I started putting a few extra dollars away every payday towards my next mission.
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My next trip is going to be a more in depth exploratory mission for possible retirement accommodations as well as a small humanitarian project. Just what project I wasn’t sure of. I only knew it couldn’t have a lot of mass as I was traveling by air and it couldn’t cost too much as I have to pay for the airfare and living costs. My brother Mario offered me a bed with his family of five and I hesitated knowing that they too have some lean times but then since we are now familia, I can buy the provisions and maybe a night on the town without offending them. We as foreigners don’t realize or appreciate a lot of the cultural intricacies of our southern neighbors and it wouldn’t hurt to brush up on the area we plan to visit.
Researching for a cause……………..
I really wasn’t sure what I could do for or bring to the community. I think I could have brought a suitcase full of tinfoil and everyone would have been grateful. It is hard watching commercials with millionaire stars providing for the poor. I wonder if they put in the same earnings to donations ratio as me? And everyone wants their names associated with them so everyone can make even more money. Too bad they are more business and church than charity.
But what are the schools needs? The children’s needs? The families needs? The communities needs?
Shoes, clothes, vitamins, money for the school, micro financing, entrepreneur/business classes, nutrition classes, school choir for fundraising, sanitation classes, authentic fiestas in the school yard for tourists, medicine. The list could go on and on but is there a way to get the community together to raise funds to further support community endeavors thus providing profit?
It’s getting a little overwhelming considering I was originally thinking of just bringing toothbrushes! Things kind of snowballed and I got buried under it.
After a little more consideration and research I came up with the bright idea to collect eyeglasses to bring down to distribute. They don’t weigh much and I can put a lot of pairs in a suitcase, perfect. I contacted a few optometry offices and within no time I had about 150 pairs of prescription glasses.
That was the easy part.
I then realized that most of the glasses were in need of some form of repair and that I didn’t know the strengths of the prescriptions. Was I going to have to find a lab to do the work and pay them? That would be too much money so back to the internet I went. It was then I found out about the Lions Club Eyeglass Recycling Program and I contacted Mr. Bernie Gribben and he told me that the Lions will provide glasses as long as I had the proper methods for distribution. Mario had contacted an ophthalmologist who was willing to help for two days so we figured we were set.
With the aid of the Calgary Lions Club Eyeglass Recycling Program, Dr. Shanda Chow, Dr. Gelatly and the inmates at Spyhill Jail for Cleaning and grading, I am traveling with 300 pairs of prescription glasses to distribute to the less fortunate neighborhoods of Huatulco.
I was lucky that Mexicana Airlines is now flying out of Calgary and that meant I could take more baggage than on a charter flight. I already had the box of glasses so now I can fill up the biggest suitcase I can find with things for my friends. Upon asking my Mexican family what they wanted from Canada I got to shopping and eventually had to figure out how to pack a frying pan, shoes, towels and sheets, candy, maple syrup, dog treats and a skateboard into the suitcase. Everything packed up good except the skateboard which was about 10 inches too long so it stuck out the end.


My trip started around 5 am at the Calgary International Airport. Arriving three hours early so I can stand in line for two of them wasn‘t the way I had planned it. So we finally board on time only to wait 2 hours for de-icing. Didn’t anyone know it was going to snow?
I am flying commercial instead of a vacation package or charter flight due to availability of flights, length of stay and price. Why is it cheaper to connect through Mexico City than a direct flight? I guess some questions just don’t have answers.
I guess looking at the bright side by being delayed in Calgary I don’t have to hang around Mexico City airport. I barely have time to get through immigration and security before realizing they don‘t post departure gates until ½ before boarding. Now that may seem like no big deal in Calgary as you can walk the whole place in10 minutes, but Mexico City is a different story. This airport is huge. You could probably fit 3 or four Calgary airports on this land.
The people are as friendly as ever and everyone I questioned in broken Spanish for information was able to answer me in some form of English. I was impressed by the fact that the Government hires handicapped people in wheelchairs for assisting travelers through the airport.
Mexico City is mucho grande in size. When we were commencing our approach you could look out either side of the plane and see city everywhere. It looks just like any other city from the air except you never see where it ends.
The flights are on regular time not Mexican time but they sure like to line people up for security and immigration. It’s kind of like the grocery store, only 3 of 12 stations are open and a lineup a mile long. I admire the Mexicans for their patience, If this was the U.S. or Canada there would be a lot of disgruntled passengers.
The last leg of my journey is to Huatulco or to be more precise I am going to the town of La Crucecita in the Bahias de Huatulco area of the southwestern state of Oaxaca, Mexico. A tropical paradise on the edge of the earth. The area was designated as a tourist area approximately 20 years ago along with four other regions in Mexico, Cancun being another. Now Cancun has exploded with tourism while Huatulco still remains the sleeping baby. Within the 9 bays of Huatulco there are 36 beaches of which only a few have been developed. If you had been to Puerto Vallarta 30 years ago you will know what I am talking about.
The governments decision to create a tourist zone here means that the infrastructure familiar to Canadians and Americans is intact. Regular 110V electricity ( no adapters needed, although a surge protector for the electronics wouldn‘t hurt) and a water treatment facility that provides potable water right out of the tap. And there are lots of cheap taxis to take you where ever you want to go ( ok, maybe we‘re not familiar with cheap cabs).
There is every type of accommodation available from B&B’s to the all inclusive as well as home rentals for the longer stay. The majority of these are located within a $4.00 cab ride from the zocalo ( the main plaza) and cover a wide range of prices.
Upon arriving in Huatulco I had the pleasure of dealing with the customs officials regarding the eyeglasses I was bringing with me. Unbeknownst to me at departure time was that the proper forms must be filled in before arrival. Luckily my “brother” Mario was there to pick me up and he knew the customs agent. After explaining to her the purpose of my visit I was allowed entry with the glasses but only by promising that on the next trip I would have all the necessary paperwork completed. The reason is the government is worried about foreigners bringing illegal contraband into the country , selling it and not obtaining the required permits or paying taxes. No different than our country.
We arrived at the Casa Cobos where I was warmly welcomed as Tio Tim (uncle Tim). The three children, Maya, Xel-ha and Eddy are the newest addition to my family.I must say that I am envious of Mario and his wife Canela for having such a close and caring family.
Canela had been in the kitchen all afternoon preparing my first homemade Mexican meal. It made me regret having a sandwich on the plane as I couldn’t eat as much as I would have liked. We’re talking salsa fresca, salsa verde, warm tortillas, veggies so fresh you could tell they were picked yesterday, frijoles and a delectable chicken . All basic everyday fixings for the average Mexican but it was a flavor rejuvenation on my palate! But the best ingredient was love. It is evident in Canela’s cooking that she loves her family. We enjoyed a relaxing evening catching up on each others lives and making plans for the distribution of the eyeglasses. It seems to me that the only time I enjoy a cold beer is in a warm climate surrounded by good friends.
Thursday
After a brief but fitful sleep I was awakened by my natural alarm clock-the family rooster! I think someone forgot to tell me about el gayo! Seems this 15 pound mass of black feathers is destined to be a mole dinner soon. There was no way I was getting up at 5 am on my first day so I tossed and turned for a couple of hours before hearing the rest of the family rise. Okay , now that I am up I’ll have my usual morning shower and get on with my first day in Huatulco.
My normal ritual consists of a 15-20 minute hot shower then shave etc. Mexican hot water systems are solar heated and after sitting all night the temperature wasn’t quite what I was used to. In fact it was downright cold. I have never used so little water when showering before. Maybe we could reduce world water consumption if shower water was only heated to 65F degrees.
A Mexican breakfast can consist of anything from fresh squeezed orange juice to eggs and beans or even the last evenings meal reincarnated as another tasty treat. For me every meal was different and exciting. It was my job every morning to squeeze the fresh juice out on the dining room table with the sun shining through the mango tree.
After breakfast and a quick clean up we were ready to get on with the day.
Mario and I walked around town a bit and I realized how slow the tourism is right now. They are not planning on a lot of Americans this year due to the financial problems. It could be a very lean year for the businesses.
I needed a bank to exchange some money and as I was entering the first door someone was attempting to exit the bank through the inside door so I was holding the door for when she came through. All of a sudden this lady is making gestures towards me and I couldn’t figure out that the security system for the bank was a locking system that only allowed one door to open at a time with the other locked until the original door was closed. Thus it is almost impossible to rob a bank AND get out of the building.
Once back on the street we sauntered around el centro taking in the sights and smells of the market before arriving back at the house.

So we had the eyeglasses and we had the ophthalmologist but where were we going to perform our duties and how do we get the word out that we are doing it? One of the neighbors is a doctor and Canella’s friend so we decided to talk to her and what luck we had. Her husband is a doctor at the naval hospital and after he chatted with the director of the hospital we were told that the facility could be made to accommodate our patients . We only needed the approval of the Admiral so we made some calls and secured a time to meet with the Admiral on Friday.

Mario and I spent the day talking and catching up on our time apart.
I am amazed at the family cohesion in this part of the world. Children have respect for the parents and neighbors help each other. Most of us would be lucky to name half a dozen people in the neighborhood.



It was so relaxing sitting around the table in the shade of a mango tree. It is here that the majority of time is spent. It’s quite amusing when the pups want to play with the rooster and picatiou the parrot squawks for food.
The four Cobos dogs are not sure what to think of me. They are very protective of their family. Miel and Truty look a lot like our dog Coco and they like to play as much as him too.
The animals in the yard include 4 dogs, a parrot, 2 parakeets, three hens, a rooster and a turtle. Uninvited pets are the likes of Tarantulas, possums and snakes. The dogs are the alarm system for intruders and animals and the hens provide fresh eggs and an occasional dinner for the family. There are numerous food producing plants on the property such as banana, limes, Nopali cactus, papaya, pineapple, mangos and a few herbs and veggies.
In the evening when the children have finished their homework the family sits together and talks and plays games at the table. Most meals ar eaten outside since the weather is perfect. The children know their bedtime and off they go with no hassle. I wish I had learned that trick for my child.
Mario and I finish the evening talking and trying to solve the worlds problems with many an amusing story and a bucketful of laughter washed down with a couple cervezas.

Friday morning arrives a little too early with the help of el gayo and I brace myself for the rigors of the cold shower.( I didn’t figure it out until Saturday that the water is warmest in the evening) as well as most refreshing after a day in the heat.
Another day to get acclimatized and relax. I need to get the city out of my system. Took it easy with a stroll around town. Canela talked to her doctor friend about distributing the eyeglasses and after a couple of phone calls the ball started rolling. We have to see the people responsible for helping us today so that we can start on Monday.
We managed to get an appointment with the Regional Admiral of the Mexican Navy and headed out to the naval base in a taxi. Upon our arrival we were scrutinized by the guards while we waited for approval to enter the base.
I glanced over a concrete barrier down into a small valley and was surprised to see the quantity of boats lined up. Most of the boats had three huge outboards on them and then there was what looked like two homemade fiberglass submarines. I learned that these vessels were all confiscated from drug traffickers. It looks like the Navy has been busy.
We finally got clearance and were escorted down the hill towards the main building. It was a relief to enter the air conditioned building as the afternoon sun was getting hot on this gringo. We were shown to the Admirals’ office where Mario explained our situation and what we proposed to do. The Admiral was quite taken that some Canadian would want to come here and help the less fortunate and quickly made a phone call to the director of the Naval Hospital in town. After he was satisfied that the hospital could accommodate us he hung up the phone and gave us his approval. We already knew we had the ok from the director of the hospital, we just needed the Admirals consent. We graciously shook hands and promised to keep him informed of our progress.
I think the temperature rose 5 degrees while we were in the building. The walk up the hill was twice as long as the one down. Luckily for us a taxi had just dropped off some soldiers to the base and we jumped in for our ride back to town.
A quick trip to the hospital to check out the facility so that we know what’s what come Monday morning followed by a long walk home and I was more than ready for a frias cerveza.

Canella is cooking more great food for dinner and when I asked if they were cooking specially for me I was told that I am eating authentic Mexican food as they would prepare everyday. With sweet corn bought fresh from the market I got to taste one of the most melt in your mouth tamales ever created. Canela is a true artist in the kitchen. I’m not sure about the calorie or cholesterol count but it sure is good. Along with some rice and raw veggies it was a meal made in heaven. I noticed on Mexican tables that there is usually an assortment of food on the table and you take what you want. It seems here at home we dish up the food on the plate with no choice as to what goes on it.
Now is the time to try the shower to see if I can tolerate the temperature. I am braced for the worst but lo and behold it is actually pleasant. Not anywhere near steamy but refreshing just the same.
After my shower I brought out presents for the family and we had our own version of Feliz Navidad. I think young Eddy was the most excited since he was anticipating the arrival of a new skateboard for months. The girls were happy with their new running shoes and stuffed Mounties bears as was Canela with new sheets and a big frying pan. I felt sorry that I didn’t get something for her personally but I brought all she had asked for .
I think that I am spoiling Mario as he got in addition to some wood carving tools, my old digital camera and some triathlon gear. Mario is an extremely fit human and I don’t know how he can compete in this heat but he finished the last triathlon ahead of some of the Olympic hopefuls. One of the locals restaurants was supposed to sponsor him in the last race but the deal fell through due to low tourist income so I sent him the money to compete.
It was a wonderful evening after the gift giving and we decided to take the dogs for a small walk. There is a vacant lot down the street that the dogs do their business so we headed towards it. Once there the dogs proceeded to rummage around the undergrowth when Poppi the eldest dog started squealing. It seems he got caught up in a bush whose leaves are like glue. As he tried to escape the bush it just kept bending with his thrusts. When he finally broke free the poor dog was totally covered in these sticky leaves and trying like hell to rub them off. I’ve never heard a dog that wasn’t dying make those kinds of noises. As I tried to catch the dog to pull the leaves off I was told it would be of no use. You see, the leaves although fresh and green, crumble like stale bread when you touch them. The best we could do was to break them up as much as possible so that there would be less discomfort for the dog. Other than that they will dry up and fall off in a couple of days.
Saturday
Another early rise from el gayo. I don’t know if I can last all week with this bird. Even the headphones for my Ipod can’t block out the crowing.
This morning we are having pancakes with the maple syrup I brought. Everyone enjoyed the new flavor experience.
Mario and I were to go about the countryside today to inform the small villages of the eyeglass program starting Monday but the cab driver we had reserved was unable to make it so a friend of his offered to drive us instead. We could have advertised through radio and media but we run the risk of those not so in need showing up for something free. By taking the taxi we are getting to the communities and people that need this service. Many questions were asked on this journey mostly pertaining to who is going to gain financially or politically and when we answered that the only gain would be for the community we were accepted and thanked.
We went to meet our driver downtown at the main plaza. While waiting for him to show up Mario and I befriended a mother daughter team on holidays. After chatting with them about local sights we promised to join them for a drink in the evening.
Our driver arrived and after stocking up on water we headed out of town.
Now, back home in Alberta I am used to seeing a sign on the highway designating which town you are passing. Not here. If you see a dirt road off the highway chances are it will lead you to a dried out riverbed with a village on the other side.
I don’t know what I felt worse for, the driver and his horrible excuse for driving or the taxi that got pummeled bouncing up and down riverbanks that would have been a challenge in a 4 X 4. Then there were the two passengers(us) hanging on for dear life. We got stuck on one road which was entirely made from beach sand and the beach is 30km away. A small stream was running through it and it was there that we got stuck the first time. After the usual pushing and groaning we were back on track. All in all it was quite the experience between the passenger participation driving and seeing the poverty in which these people lived. Many places were no more than a roof with a table and a couple of hammocks. The local water supply came from a garden hose in the centre of town. I wanted desperately to take some photos to share with the people in my world but I felt like an intruder violating their personal space.
I queried Mario as to why there were a few newer vehicles in the villages and I was informed that the locals are offered drive the car to a destination and let someone unload the cargo. If they don’t get caught or arrested the car is then theirs to keep. Usually it gets sold and the family will have money to survive on for the next year. Most people don’t willingly participate in the smuggling trade but when your children are hungry you will do what you have to do to persevere.
I saw many families with children at home because there are no schools or no money for school. If they could get a basic education there is a whole tourist industry for them to get a job in. Discrimination is quite high in Mexico as well. Indigenous people have a difficult time getting employment mostly due to the darkness of their skin.
We arrived back in town about 4 hours later dusty and dry.
First stop is the beer store to get a couple of cold ones to wash down the road dust and then home for another wonderful meal from Canela.
While sitting around the dinner table it was decided to go to San Agustin beach tomorrow. The kids got all excited and went to get things ready. In order to save money we went back to the beer store for a beach supply of beer. The best prices in town for beer was a 20 minute walk so once again I enjoyed strolling through the town. On the way back I ran into the two American girls that we had met this morning and offered to take them to San Agustin with us if they split the cost of the rental vehicle. They jumped at the chance to see something off the beaten path. We decided on a time to meet and bid each other a good evening.
Back at the house everyone was preparing for the beach day. Mario called his friend with the suburban and it was dropped off to us an hour. We would have to leave the dogs alone and everyone was worried that someone might steal them so it was decided to leave them in the house.


Sunday
After my 5 am wakeup from the el gayo we all got ready to go to ST Augustin Bay. We picked up the girls and after loading up the vehicle for the beach we hit the highway.
As we passed small communities we informed them of the prescription glasses available and to come to town on Monday or Tuesday. As we were doing this we also checked out some fresh corn and pumpkins for Canela to cook with.
We parked our hides at Mario’s friend Charlie’s restaurant right on the beach. All that is left is to sit back and enjoy. The weather is perfect and the water is warm. Nothing like a snorkel around the coral lined bay, a little ceviche and cerveza and a nap on the beach. How idyllic.

Monday we arrived at the Naval Hospital and were greeted by a full waiting room!
We had originally planned on 4 hours a day for 2 - 3 days but with the size of the crowd we knew we were in for more.
Luckily for us the staff at the hospital were recording names as people arrived so that everyone was seen in the order that they came in.Dr Maria the Ophthamologist was exceptional dealing with the patients. Most of the older folks were illiterate so they couldn't read the letters on the chart. The doctor had to devise ways of testing them to be able to get the right strength of prescription. She was amazing dealing with these peasants who were used to a life of discrimination and neglect. They were so grateful that our "group" would go to this kind of trouble for them.
Our fourth patient of the day thurned out to be none other than our cab driver from the trip to the villages! He ended up getting one of the more powerful prescriptions that we had. In retrospect, Mario and I were glad to have come out of that ordeal with our lives!

Around noon one of the elders called us over to inform us that the people waiting to see the doctor were hungry from travelling so far and that they didn't have money. They were going to go home and miss out on getting glasses so Mario and I went downtown and hired a tamale cart to go to the hospital and feed the folks inside. I think we fed some staff too but it's okay.

By 2 o'clock we had to inform a number of people that we wouldn't be able to see them until tomorrow. Since we had thier names on the list they would get first priority. We worked until 6 o'clock and since we had a little energy left Mario and I walked back to his house for dinner and then out for ice cream.
Tuesday morning and the waiting room was full again. Most of the crowd was over 50 but there was a handful of children that I could also hand out toothbrushes to.
Everything was going well. we were under 15 minutes per patient and running smoothly.
Once again we realized that we had more patients than time that day and had to ask those that could to come back on Wednesday.
Our evening was a mixture of emotion and exhaustion. We felt good but we were tired. a good nights rest and we will have finished our project.


On Wednesday we examined and distributed almost every pair of eyeglasses. We ran out of patients around 2pm so I took the people that helped out for a late lunch. We enjoyed a good conversation and decided to try again next year. I snuck out and bought flowers for dr. Maria and enjoyed the smile that ithey brought to her face. It was a success and I hope that I left a good enough impression on the people that helped us so that we can do it again.




Unfortunately my time was up and I had to get back on the plane.





This area has stolen my heart and I will do what I can for the people of Huatulco.





My goal is to get as many people as I can to donate $10.00 a month towards helping the local schools and entrepeneurs.




Questions and inquiries can be directed to flotim@telusplanet.net